Gloria Baxevanis

Poem

2009-02-09T17:42:00.000-08:00

Tell me, if I would catch you one day
and kiss the sole of your foot,
wouldn’t you limp a little,
affraid that you might crush my kiss? …..

[translation - Nichita Stanescu, Poem]

A house with a view - Cayman Islands

2009-01-26T17:32:00.000-08:00

Location, Location, Location!

This is not a real estate commercial but a short account of my visit to one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.
Grand Cayman, is not quite “grand,” rather is a small but beautiful island with azure waters, white sand beaches, and whispering palm trees, with narrow roads and too many cars.

Walking on the main road in Georgetown I came accross a rather ordinary house protected by a white fence. However, behind this insignificant edifice, nature's most wonderful gift lays at our feet: "The Seven Mile Beach."

Naturally, the house, with the corresponding beach access, belongs to the Governor, but many average Joes and Janes are soaking in the sun then cooling off in the sea. Access to the beach is not restricted.

If you are ever in the Caymans, the Seven Mile Beach is not to miss. Schedule at least a day to lazy around in the sand, dip deep in the turquoise waters, and who knows, you might even catch a glimpse of the Governor! After all, it is his backyard…

Traversing Transylvania

2009-01-21T17:03:00.000-08:00

For all of you who probably expected this to be a detailed account of my return to "Dracula-land" you'll be dissapointed ... because it is not.

I have long fought people's notion of Transylvania being the land of creepy castle strategically placed on top of inaccessible hills, where Prince Vlad's [aka Dracula] past presence is a reason for building ghastly theme parks and horrific hotels.

It has been five years since I left Romania and I was interested to see the changes implemented (or not) throughout the years that I was away. I have to admit that my travel account is probably a very one sided one, as you cannot possibly understand a country unless you live in it.

For the inexperienced traveler who usually wants to follow less “draculean” paths I would recommend driving up from Bucharest – the gateway to the country – to Transylvania then simply poke around and visit the many small yet picturesque and welcoming villages.

I am not much of a mountain climber hence I cannot offer any advice for the hard core mountaineers; but I would certainly suggest that you stop in Sinaia or Predeal and set up your base camp there. There are chair lifts and cabin lifts which can take you to the peak for unforgettable views of the Carpathian Mountain Range.

If you are more like me and you rather cherish visiting small villages (or bigger cities for that matter), learn about the customs, meet the people, and see the landscape, then continue on to Targu Mures, the city I know you will enjoy very much.

On your way stop in Sighisoara and catch a glimpse of its former splendor; visit the 12th century citadel and its famous Clock tower, built in 1556 and standing 60 meters atop. The tower is now a museum worth visiting. Those in search of the medieval charm might stroll the cobblestoned street and admire the numerous craft shops.

Sighisoara is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and each July hosts a Medieval Festival.

The winding road takes you through picturesque villages, though some of them partially deserted by their former occupants. These once impeccable houses, now crumbling and unrecognizable structures once belonged to mercantile Saxons and their descendants. Due to the hardships of communist years most of them choose to immigrate and left their home unattended. Large Roma families now claim ownership of once fine-looking, strong houses and the land around them.

A stop on the last hill top offers a spectacular panoramic view of Targu Mures. Tall apartment buildings mix with smoke-blowing factory chimneys, crisp green parks attract the eye, and the winding blue-gray Mures river embraces the town in the North.

An array of attraction awaits your discovery once you’re here. You may choose to visit the Teleki Library, founded by count Samuel Teleki in 1802, one of the richest depository of Transylvanian cultural artifacts; admire the Palace of Culture and its superb Mirrors Hall, constructed at the request of Bernady Gyorgy by Komor Marcell and Jakab Deszo. Continue on to the Citadel, built at the request of Borsos Tamas and admire its simple yet impressive beauty. Stroll along its ramparts then pause at the Gothic style reformed church and enjoy the tranquility of an organ recital.

You might want to also explore other architectural landmarks of this city: the Toldalagi House, the Teleki Domokos House, the Executioner House, the House on Arches, the Prefecture Building, and many other architectural gems.

A mixed society inhabits these lands - mostly Greek orthodox but also a large number of Catholics, Protestants and other faiths -Transylvanian have elected numerous churches to bare witness to the religious variety of this region. You may admire the simplicity of the Wooden Church - the oldest Orthodox Church in Targu Mures, the small reformed church - once a shelter for the poor, the Minorite Church -wich latter became the headquarters for the Austrian military, the opulent Orthodox Cathedral situated in the main square just a few feet away from the Roman Catholic church.

Not to miss is the Jewish sinagogue, once center of a vibrant and succesful jewish society, built by the plans of Viennese architect Jacob Gartner. Today a handfull of Holocaust survivors are managing the daily lives of about 100 elderly jewish men and women. Forming a wonderful community, welcoming, kind, and warm, these people will share with you their gripping stories for an unforgetable glimpse into this region's tumultuous past.

Detailed information about Targu Mures' history, architecture,and museums can be found at
Cultura.inmures.ro.
The website also features a cultural agenda which provides the visitor comprehensive information about theater performances, art galleries, concerts, etc.

Dining with the Gods

2009-01-17T15:01:00.001-08:00

Where ever I traveled in Crete I met people who treasured their culinary heritage. On this magical island, birthplace of Zeus himself, there are still people who take the time to make their own yogurt, cheese, wine, and olive oil. They tend to small orchards, vegetable gardens, and sheep just as their parents and grandparents used to. Hania, in northwestern Crete, is the island’s capital city and the place where tourists flock by thousands each year. Peppered with small, family-run restaurants, Hania offers the very best of Greek and Cretan cuisine and the freshest ingredients.

A chilly March sun interjects its shy rays through the clouds like ancient Greek spears preparing for battle. Families stroll the promenade under the occasional salty sprinkle. Young boys fish at the pier, their laughter clouded by the sea’s hum. Old couples sit on benches recalling the past. Sunday mid-day is leisure time for the Greeks, a time for good company, good conversation and more important, good food.

As my husband and I come across a rather insignificant restaurant we are greeted with a friendly “kalimera” and offered to taste the owner’s raki. The fiery liquid is good and very strong. It burns our tongues and slips down our throats, opening our appetite. This is the way Greek restaurants lure customers - with a glass of strong raki. We are hungry now, and sit down carefully. These chairs do not inspire too much trust! One minute later Manos, the owner, brings out freshly baked bread and golden-greenish goodness: spiced olive oil. Quietly standing behind her father is Maria, Manos’ teenager daughter, who is eager to display her waitress talents and practice her English. We put aside the menus and ask Manos for today's specials also asking him what ingredients he is using. He proudly tells us that his brother-in-law has a small vineyard just a short drive from here, on the slopes towards Iraklio, and that his white housevine is one of the best on the island. As for the vegetables in his salad, they all come from his garden: huge, ruby tomatoes of irregular shapes, bursting with flavor; long, crunchy green peppers and dark green, juicy, sweet cucumbers. His wife, Maria, tends the garden, Manos said. She takes good care of it and knows exactly when to pick each vegetable so that it is just right. “Because you know, ” he says, “she is the chef, and a very good one.”

We feast on roasted and marinated red peppers and a few servings of gavros. A huge bowl of Greek salad reigns in the center of the table, its vivid greens and reds showing off the sweet goodness of fresh vegetables. Yellow-green olive oil drizzles were sparkling like rivers of gold. Manos and Maria the daughter keep bringing out countless mezethes tastefully arranged on small, simple plates: a few dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves) and keftedes are quickly followed by tender, young octopus prepared in red wine. A pungent rabbit stifado is next, an indication that Manos, like all Cretans, loves to hunt. He usually hunts with his son, and yesterday morning they caught this rabbit, he tells us. Sweet, soft rabbit meat, marinated for 24 hours in a vinegary liquid, is cooked in a chunked-tomato and stewed-onion mixture. Abundant homemade tomato sauce is spiced with bay leaves and cinnamon sticks. An ancient recipe, never altered, never updated - culinary perfection passed on from generation to generation. We continue with lamb and pork on skewers – the traditional souflaki. The soft, juicy, tender meat melts in our mouths in bursts of flavor. I feel a sort of pleasant spiciness and ask Manos what condiments Maria uses to marinate the meat. The answer is simple: local oregano. Up in the mountains, just a few miles from here, is a herb-and-spices heaven. Oregano, rosemary, thyme, every spice imaginable grows there.

It is getting late now, and the aroma of strong, dark, steaming Greek coffee surrounds us. A few locals stop by – they are all Manos’ friends. They toss their worry beads and carefully sit on Manos’ wobbly chairs, scolding him for not replacing them. Manos and young Maria quickly bring out the mandatory raki and coffee. Even Maria the wife appears from inside the kitchen and greets her husband’s old friends.

It is time for the sun to plunge into the blue Aegean Sea and the Cretans are getting ready for the spectacle of that moment: a lamenting, soft bouzouki starts an ancient sweet tune accompanying the fiery sun's descent into the depths of the endless sea. And all of us, tourists and locals, are whispering an ode to all Gods who helped us discover the true essence of good life.

San Carlos de Bariloche - Swiss Alps charm in the Southern Hemisphere

2008-12-19T17:15:00.000-08:00

I was reluctant to believe my travel brochure's description of Bariloche: Swiss Alps village charm when, on my way from Bariloche airport, I caught glimpses of azure lakes and grey-green pampas. No, there are no Swiss villages here... or are they?

A short drive to town unravels the many beauties of this region: snow capped mountain in the background, crystal clear lakes, and colorful spots of shy spring flowers dotting the fields.

I abandon the luggage in my hotel room [Edelweiss on Avenida San Martin] and take it to the streets, inquisitive about this place. I wander on streets reminiscing of Europe, admiring the Swiss village like architecture of this place. Yes, I said "Swiss village" like.

Bakeries display a bountiful offer of chocolates, cookies, pastries, and deserts; young girls in German village outfits are invitingly smiling behind the counters.

I stroll down to the shores of lake Nahuel Huapi and take in magnificent scenery of its radiant glacial blue; admire the snow-covered mountains dominating the horizons then head back stopping on my way to visit the “Museo of Patagonia Francisco P. Moreno”. The small yet well equipped museum presents the traveler a collections of Patagonian animals in the Natural History section; different expressions of human cultural development in the Patagonian regions; depicts the local history, different stages of development of Patagonia as well as a comprehensive ethnographic picture of the area including the five ethnic groups: Yamanas, Onas, Tehuelche, Pehueche, and Mapuche. An English-Spanish dictionary comes in handy as all the inscriptions are in Spanish only.

[Entrance fee: 10 pesos. Schedule : Tuesdays thru Fridays from 10.00am to 12.30pm and from 2.00pm to 7.00pm Saturdays from 10.00am to 5.00pm]

I continue with a short visit of the beautiful Bariloche Cathedral.

“Familia Weiss” restaurant proved to be an excellent choice given their extensive menu, good prices, and pleasant atmosphere. I highly recommend the delicious roast of Patagonian lamb. Top it all off with a glass of locally brewed beer then get ready to continue the exploration of Bariloche in the afternoon.

The Circuito Chico is certainly a good way to explore the area and take in the stunning views for anyone who doesn't have more than two days to spend here. A five-hour drive around the town reveals the stunning natural beauties of the area. The road snakes along the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi mirroring the azure skies, then ascends through the dense forests with the occasional stop for the perfect photographic experience. Indeed the place is magnificent; the air is crisp and clean with a scent of cypresses.

We stop to admire [from distance] the Llao Llao hotel, a symbol of Bariloche and a creation of architect Alejandro Bustillo, which continues to welcome celebrities from around the world.

What better way to see all these beauties then from the skies? We hop on the chair lift to Cerro Cathedral and take in the magnificent vistas of picturesque Bariloche framed by snow-capped mountains.

Other highlights of Circuito Chico are a visit to one of many chocolate factories, a visit to the Rosa Mosqueta (Rose Hip) Factory outlet, numerous stops along the way to admire and purchase local crafts, chocolates, and sweets, knitted garments and woodwork, and the many outstanding photo opportunities.

Patagonia - El Fin del Mundo

2008-11-23T09:34:00.001-08:00

Our bus lingers on dusty, unpaved roads taking occasional stops to admire alert groups of guanacos, graceful pink flamingos, and curious reas (ostridge like birds). We have been driving for about an hour and I was asking myself "where are those famous Torres?" when our guide exclaimed: "Here they are, the famed Torres del Paine".
Rugged, majestic blocs of granite, shoot out towards the deep blue sky, their peaks embraced by gentle, fluffy clouds. They are indeed towers, or "torres", probably guarding a fabled passage of gods.

We arrive from Puerto Natales and enter the park via Porteria Y Guarderia Laguna Amarga and witness immediately the beauty and splendor of the Paine Massif – a range independent from the Andean one, formed some 12 million years ago when granite pluton penetrated through a crack in the Magellan’s basin.

Home in Hania

2008-10-25T17:13:00.000-07:00

This post is under construction. Perimenete ligo.

A Mayan Adventure

2008-10-25T16:48:00.000-07:00

This posting is under construction.