Traversing Transylvania

For all of you who probably expected this to be a detailed account of my return to "Dracula-land" you'll be dissapointed ... because it is not.

I have long fought people's notion of Transylvania being the land of creepy castle strategically placed on top of inaccessible hills, where Prince Vlad's [aka Dracula] past presence is a reason for building ghastly theme parks and horrific hotels.

It has been five years since I left Romania and I was interested to see the changes implemented (or not) throughout the years that I was away. I have to admit that my travel account is probably a very one sided one, as you cannot possibly understand a country unless you live in it.

For the inexperienced traveler who usually wants to follow less “draculean” paths I would recommend driving up from Bucharest – the gateway to the country – to Transylvania then simply poke around and visit the many small yet picturesque and welcoming villages.

I am not much of a mountain climber hence I cannot offer any advice for the hard core mountaineers; but I would certainly suggest that you stop in Sinaia or Predeal and set up your base camp there. There are chair lifts and cabin lifts which can take you to the peak for unforgettable views of the Carpathian Mountain Range.

If you are more like me and you rather cherish visiting small villages (or bigger cities for that matter), learn about the customs, meet the people, and see the landscape, then continue on to Targu Mures, the city I know you will enjoy very much.

On your way stop in Sighisoara and catch a glimpse of its former splendor; visit the 12th century citadel and its famous Clock tower, built in 1556 and standing 60 meters atop. The tower is now a museum worth visiting. Those in search of the medieval charm might stroll the cobblestoned street and admire the numerous craft shops.

Sighisoara is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and each July hosts a Medieval Festival.

The winding road takes you through picturesque villages, though some of them partially deserted by their former occupants. These once impeccable houses, now crumbling and unrecognizable structures once belonged to mercantile Saxons and their descendants. Due to the hardships of communist years most of them choose to immigrate and left their home unattended. Large Roma families now claim ownership of once fine-looking, strong houses and the land around them.

A stop on the last hill top offers a spectacular panoramic view of Targu Mures. Tall apartment buildings mix with smoke-blowing factory chimneys, crisp green parks attract the eye, and the winding blue-gray Mures river embraces the town in the North.

An array of attraction awaits your discovery once you’re here. You may choose to visit the Teleki Library, founded by count Samuel Teleki in 1802, one of the richest depository of Transylvanian cultural artifacts; admire the Palace of Culture and its superb Mirrors Hall, constructed at the request of Bernady Gyorgy by Komor Marcell and Jakab Deszo. Continue on to the Citadel, built at the request of Borsos Tamas and admire its simple yet impressive beauty. Stroll along its ramparts then pause at the Gothic style reformed church and enjoy the tranquility of an organ recital.

You might want to also explore other architectural landmarks of this city: the Toldalagi House, the Teleki Domokos House, the Executioner House, the House on Arches, the Prefecture Building, and many other architectural gems.


A mixed society inhabits these lands - mostly Greek orthodox but also a large number of Catholics, Protestants and other faiths -Transylvanian have elected numerous churches to bare witness to the religious variety of this region. You may admire the simplicity of the Wooden Church - the oldest Orthodox Church in Targu Mures, the small reformed church - once a shelter for the poor, the Minorite Church -wich latter became the headquarters for the Austrian military, the opulent Orthodox Cathedral situated in the main square just a few feet away from the Roman Catholic church.

Not to miss is the Jewish sinagogue, once center of a vibrant and succesful jewish society, built by the plans of Viennese architect Jacob Gartner. Today a handfull of Holocaust survivors are managing the daily lives of about 100 elderly jewish men and women. Forming a wonderful community, welcoming, kind, and warm, these people will share with you their gripping stories for an unforgetable glimpse into this region's tumultuous past.

Detailed information about Targu Mures' history, architecture,and museums can be found at
Cultura.inmures.ro.
The website also features a cultural agenda which provides the visitor comprehensive information about theater performances, art galleries, concerts, etc.